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Colchester And District Archery Club

Getting Started



OK, you have completed the beginners' course now you need your own kit to start shooting. The following check list should give you an idea of the items that you will need to purchase. Depending on your budget you may decide to purchase all or some of the optional items but none of them will prevent you from starting if you wait to get them later.

    Essential Items

  1. A bow + bow string - Unless you know what sort of archery you want to do, the best choice for a starter bow is a recurve bow. Talk to club members about what draw weight you should be aiming for. For adult men you ideally need a bow that can reach 100yds/90m and for adult women a bow that can reach 80yds/70m but a lighter bow can be used for starters. Juniors can get away with far less draw weight. Visually impaired archers can also use lighter bows. Remember, in a competition you may have to shoot over 144 arrows so you need to be comfortable with the draw weight. Over time your muscles will strengthen and the bow will become a bit more comfortable to shoot, so you can push your self a little bit to begin with. Don't over do it though, if you are struggling to draw the bow you may do yourself an injury and you can't aim properly so endangering others. Go to a local archery shop and talk to the staff about your requirements. You should be able to try several bows out at the shop before making a purchase. If you are unsure about what direction your archery will take, then it is best to go for one of the cheaper recurves to start with and upgrade later to a different bow. It is only worth considering an expensive bow if you are really sure that it is the bow type that you want to shoot long term. If you lack the physical strength to draw and hold a recurve bow consider a compound bow as the cam mechanism reduces the draw weight at full draw. However unless you can get a second hand bow this is probably the most expensive option. For target archery there are really only three bow types to consider: Longbow, Recurve or Compound. Other bow types can be shot in competition, but these are the main bow types used. In field archery the choice is much wider, but don't buy a crossbow as these are not allowed in most competitions, target or field.
  2. An arrow rest - this fits to the bow and holds the front of the arrow in place when you draw. The staff at your local archery shop will be able to sort you out with a suitable arrow rest to match your arrows and bow type. A cheaper type is suitable to begin with.
  3. A set of arrows - the arrows need to match the bow type and draw weight. The staff at your local archery shop will be able to sort you out with a suitable set. Cheaper aluminium or wooden arrows are fine to begin with. You will need at least 6 plus spares, a dozen is a good number to buy.
  4. A bracer - many styles of bracer (arm guard) are available. As you are starting, one of the larger sizes would be better. Try out a few to get one that is comfortable to wear. When you get better you can go for a smaller bracer as you should be less likely to hit your arm with the bow string by then.
  5. A tab or shooting glove (release aid for compound bows) - the best choice for a recurve bow is a platform tab. For a longbow a shooting glove or simple tab is preferable. Compound bow archers normally use a release aid. Various types are available. The only guidance that I can give you is to try out several until you find one that you get on with.
  6. A quiver - find one that is comfortable and large enough for your arrows. It is a good idea to get one with two or more compartments for the arrows. This allows you to separate the arrows that you are shooting from your spares or damaged arrows. You are less likely to shoot too many arrows at the target by mistake (which will loose you points) if you separate out the right number to begin with.

    7. Optional Items

  7. A sight - strange as it might seem a sight is not essential for all bow types or classes (categories) in fact on some bow types you are not allowed a sight. You will most likely want a sight for recurve or compound bows. Simple sights are OK to begin with but often lack adjustment range for long distance targets. It is better if you can afford it to go for a sight that can be adjusted for length as well as up/down, left/right. Compound sights can have magnification, don't go for a high magnification to begin with.
  8. A scoring pad - not too big as it can get in your way when shooting. If your quiver has pockets or straps try to get a pad that will fit into it or attach to it.
  9. A carry case for all your equipment - apart from cost, one thing to consider is, will it fit in to the boot of your car. If it doesn't, how will you get it to and from a shoot. It should be big enough to fit the majority of your equipment and protect it from damage during transit.
  10. A long rod or steady bar - Not applicable for longbows. For recurves and compound bows you need a bow that has the threaded inserts to take the long rod/steady bars. Talk to the shop staff for a suitable device for your bow. If you can, try several out before buying.
  11. A spare set of arrows - yes I know that you had some spares but a second set of arrows with different coloured fletchings may be needed if you enter a competition. If someone else shooting on your target has the same arrows as you, how will you know who has shot which arrow? One of you will need to use a different set. Now you know why you need a second set.
  12. A spare bow string - bow strings wear and can even break. Have a spare ready as you never know when you will need it.
  13. A bow stand - somewhere to put your bow when you are scoring your arrows or waiting to shoot. Many types are available the choice is yours, just make sure that it is suitable for your bow type.

There are many other gadgets, books etc... that you could purchase, but it's best to leave these to later when you will have a better idea of what you will really need.

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